Special to the Daily News
South Carolina Island offers Southern Charm, History
Sunday, June 17, 2007
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To live happily at Daufuskie
You must have the soul of a poet
The mind of a philosopher
The simple tastes of a
hermit
And a good Jeep!
— Harriet Boyd, sister of a former resident
After we boarded the ferry from a dock at Hilton Head, S.C., the 40-minute ride to Daufuskie Island was a hop and skip aboard a trade wind.
We weren't sure what to expect on this island filled with conservative yet beautiful and costly homes, a venerable hotel, guest cottages, vacation villas and a variety of eccentric scavengers who live modestly.
But after about an hour, my friend, my two Jack Russell terriers and I were quite taken with the low country charm and 3 miles of white, sandy beaches and salt marshes. We were amazed at the abundance of wildlife — including egrets, osprey, heron and dolphins, which at times, seemed more plentiful than people.
In short, Daufuskie Island, a 1,200-acre island sanctuary, looks like God's country, and the denizens who live here — young couples with second homes, writers, artists, sculptors, drop-outs and wealthy retired gentry (including hockey great Mark Messier) — thrive on its isolation.
Contemporary Southern author Pat Conroy wrote about the beauty and complexity of the island three decades ago in his memoir The Water is Wide.
Daufuskie Island is between Hilton Head and Tybee Island, Ga., on the Atlantic Coast, nestled into the intersection of Calibogue Sound and Cooper River. A ferry also leaves from Savannah, Ga., about a half-hour closer to Florida, but you don't get the low country backdrop.
With no bridge connected to the mainland, Daufuskie is a lone island in the stream. It was the first inhabited Carolina Sea Island, and remains the southernmost tip of South Carolina. Golf carts and bicycles are the main transportation, although the 250 island residents are allowed to drive vehicles.
People come to Daufuskie because of its natural beauty, clean environment and outdoor activities. And once you have spent 40 minutes on the ferry to get there, it is best to hang around for at least three days.
In that time, even the most power-packed people can relax, recharge and unwind enough to enjoy the seashore, the pair of professional golf courses by Jack Nicklaus and Tom Weiskopf, the marina, the award-winning Breathe Spa, the five swimming pools, tennis center, fishing, hiking, biking and equestrian center.
According to the book, An Island Named Daufuskie, by Billie Burn, an erstwhile island postmaster and school bus driver, the name Daufuskie is either Gullah (a Creole language) and means "the first key" or Indian and means "island of blood."
Antebellum style
As tourists for a few days on two occasions, we checked into the antebellum-styled Daufuskie Island Resort & Breathe Spa. There are several choices for accommodations, from oceanfront guest rooms with sitting and work areas in the plantation-styled Melrose Inn to two- or four-bedroom cottages and villas on the sea or golf course. Each bedroom has its own phone line, voice mail, Internet connection and private bathroom.
The first trip, we stayed in an older cottage usually reserved for the owners. It had two bedrooms, two bathrooms, a full kitchen and large living room. We had spectacular ocean and garden views. After one night, we were quite comfortable, and loved to watch the sunrise and sunset from our porch.
On our most recent trip this spring, we stayed at the resort's main inn (Melrose) on the second floor in a large room with a huge marble bath and splendid views of the water. It was clean and charming, with Southern-styled furnishings of red and gold.
There are several restaurants in Melrose, plus a couple of others nearby — one in the golf club, another in the beach club.
The hotel staffers are nice and friendly, and love pets, but the inn service is laid-back like the lifestyle of the barrier island. Don't go there looking for instant gratification. We had to wait a few minutes longer for answers to questions, but there was plenty of distraction to hold our attention.
We rode around the grounds on our assigned golf cart and saw fancy homes and the more transient areas in full bloom. Melrose is the main social area with an attractive conference complex for business meetings and conventions.
Bloody Point, on the other side of the island, has another golf course, clubhouse, condos, pool, the cafe/bar Marshside Mama's with great shrimp and grits, and the Breathe Spa.
Eclectic people
Daufuskie is a community of interesting, iconoclastic people, who either mix with tourists on a daily basis or stick to their own friends.
One local character, Joe Yocius, has turned an old lighthouse and oil house into the Silver Dew Winery, a specialty vintage he sells at the island's general store. A blues musician — he goes by the name "Low Country Joe" —runs a recording studio out of his winery and hosts a blues festival on the island.
On the way to the spa, we rode through magical maritime forests filled with live oaks that went on and on like a scene out of a Gothic novel — spectacular, scary and relaxing all at once.
Spa evokes nature
The Breathe Spa itself is a woodsy oasis. The decor combined the sea with the garden and woods.
Pick among nine massages, exfoliation, wraps, hydrotherapy baths, hand and foot treatments, skin care and waxing services. I had an invigorating massage. Towels were luxurious, and the locker room was finished in woods and soft colors.
We dined in the Old World Stoddard Room. The food was delicious, the service excellent and the ambiance upscale, but not overwhelming. We sat and talked until midnight, and no one pushed us out.
For snacks or other small desires, the general store is open daily. With no full-scale grocery on the island, it's best to bring necessary supplies on the boat from Hilton Head.
Tours, excursions
Historical, nature and archeological tours are available, as well as fishing excursions. Ask about these at the front desk of the hotel. And for history lessons about the island, many of the local residents will regale you with stories dating to the Civil War.
Or, just hang out with a good book, close friends and your beloved pets. For any season, island tranquility is good for the soul.
IF YOU GO
Daufuskie Island is midway between Hilton Head, S.C., and Savannah, Ga. Ferry service to the island is available from both cities.
Lodging
Daufuskie Island
Resort & Breathe Spa
421 Squire Pope Road
Hilton Head, SC 29926
(800) 648-6778
daufuskieisland
resort.com
The resort is composed of two plantations, Melrose (in the center of the island on the Atlantic) and Bloody Point (on the southernmost point).
Summer high season rates:
Oceanfront cottages: $259-$539 a night.
Rooms in the hotel: $199-$329 a night.
Vacation home and villa rentals: $4,500-$7,500 a week.
Three-bedroom premium villas: $539 a night.
Historic sites
The 1881 First Union African Baptist Church, the Praise House and the Mary Fields school and the site of the 19th century Bloody Point Lighthouse.
Local artisans
Daufuskie Gallery, on Sarah Grant off Haig Point Road. Original paintings, basketware, stained glass and books written by local authors. (843) 842-3300
Silver Dew Pottery: Nature- and water-inspired bowls, plates, mugs and more. (843) 842-6419
The Iron Fish: Meet Chase Allen, a blacksmith/metal artist who specializes in hand forging steel into wall-mounted fish sculptures at a historic Gullah cottage, 168 Benjies Point Road, Daufuskie. (843) 842-9448; www.ironfishart.com











nadian Pacific Railway in 1888. The included pic shows a "heritage" picture of folks on horseback. The pic could have been taken today because thankfully nothing has changed. Soon we found the hot springs and soothed our tired bodies like travelers did a century ago. I even donned a tradition looking bathing suit complete with shoulder straps. I will never forget Mary's laughter as I made my way to the steaming pools. 